It was day 5 of our week-long journey through Limpopo. Temperatures had reached a high of 39 degrees but it felt like 45…or 50. After having driven far north beyond the last toll gate in Limpopo and nearing the South Africa/Zimbabwe border, we arrived at Mapungubwe National Park for a cultural walk.
Our guide drove us a few kilometres into the national park. His name was Cedric Setlhako – a young man with a commanding voice and dreadlocks that hung past his shoulders. During the drive, we spotted some zebra and filled quiet moments with polite enquiries about how intense the impending walk would be. Cedric gave little away.
“This is where we get out,” Cedric announced as he stopped the engine. It was time to begin the walk.
I contemplated whether this experience would be worth me leaving the shade of the game-drive vehicle.
However, every stop along this road trip through Limpopo thus far had been both necessary and brilliant. So, I obliged.
I stepped out onto the dry, yellow sand unaware that I was walking on very important land.
I had not been involved in planning the itinerary for this trip. I went into Mapungubwe without knowing what to expect. Read on for my journey from ignorance to enlightenment to awe.
The land was flat, vast and sparingly scattered with shrubs, grass and trees. Almost everything was a shade of brown. Small rocks marked out our pathway. It seemed we were headed towards a large rocky hill ahead.
Cedric had a tall gun slung over his shoulder as he led us on the walk. I wondered if he had ever had to use it on a cultural walk like this one before. I also wondered if sweat was rolling down Cedric’s back as it was mine or if he had become accustomed to this heat. Is that even possible?
We stopped before reaching the hill. Cedric steadily turned a wheel to reveal an excavation about 3 metres deep. We walked down metal steps to get into it. There was an exposed sandy wall within the excavation that would be the talking point of this stop.
“Welcome to Mapungubwe. This place takes us back about 1000 years.” My curiosity was sparked. Our guide pointed out that the wall beside us showed evidence of the historical settlement of African communities in Mapungubwe up to 1000 years ago.
We could easily see the hardened layers of clay, dung and gravel which were remnants of the old hut floors many many years ago. It was fascinating.
This is where African kingdomship started in Southern Africa. People moved from here to establish Great Zimbabwe. Cedric explained that, “This is known because of the similarities in artefacts found in both locations.”
We learnt about these artefacts which included Chinese clay pots, metal ornaments and glass beads which likely got here through trade.
I wondered why I had not ever heard of this place before. Or was it my fault? Had I not paid attention? Because how could a place this important not be celebrated very loudly?
After this enlightening introduction to Mapungubwe, I was excited to see where the royal family had lived. We would just need to climb 147 steps to get there. One hundred and forty seven.
The large rocky hill that we had noticed from a distance before was in fact the royal homestead. The king and his family stayed up on that hill while the rest of the community lived along the valley. Interestingly, this was the first example of African classism in South African history.
At this point, I had surrendered to the heat and wanted to learn as much as I could retain. I felt a mix of shame and guilt for having dragged my feet out of the car initially.
I needed to be there.
I felt emotional being at Mapungubwe.
Happiness
Pride
Wonder
Awe.
Learning about the history of black people in Southern Africa before colonisation was a deep experience. It did so much good for this black African’s soul. I didn’t realise how much I had needed this.
The walk along the top of the hill would be the highlight for me. At first glance it was rock, grass and sand with a magnificent view of the surrounds. It was brought to life as we were expertly guided through the well-preserved evidence of the royal family’s home.
This included the grinding stones that the women would use to crush their grain, a deep rectangular water pit and a spot for the royal guard who would look out for approaching rule breakers.
During the Mapungubwe period, they would mine gold and use it to trade. Ponder on that for a moment.
All of the gold excavated by archeologists at Mapungubwe was only found on the royal hill giving insight that gold was associated with royalty.
There was a burial site on the hill where 22 graves were uncovered. The graves which sparked a lot of interest from researchers were of three men who were buried in a seated position facing west. No one is certain of the reason for this burial position but it is said that, “When someone has died the sun has set for that person just as the sun sets in the west,” Cedric explained.
One of the graves found at Mapungubwe contained a small, gold-plated rhino. This rhino is believed to have been the totem of a community there and now remains the symbol of Mapungubwe. It is also believed that the grave withholding the golden rhino was the grave of the king.
I was impressed to see the good condition of a 1000-year-old Morabaraba African game carved into a big stone. If you do not recognise the name, perhaps the images below will spark some familiarity.
The story of the people of Mapungubwe brings a whole other dimension to self pride as a black African especially because our history is often told from the start of colonisation.
An African community with land.
With harmony.
Without borders.
My mind tries to fathom a black person’s self identity that is not impacted by racism. I try to imagine how the people of Mapungubwe viewed themselves in those days. How did it feel to be black?
It is silent there now but I wonder what it sounded like back then with the community of 5000 along the valley and the 50 royals on the hill.
I wonder what they did to keep cool on hot days like this.
I wonder if the women would complain amongst themselves about having to do the hard work of collecting water and storing grain.
I wonder what they feared and what they hoped for.
What did they sing about?
If only the baobab could speak. They know everything.
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Thank you for this, I actually teach about this as part of the curriculum in primary school. Your perspective though, has left me feeling so enlightened and I too, wish too experience this one day.
Your writing gets better by the day. Absolutely love it
I love how Mapungubwe highlights how great we are before we were told we are not good enough. I loved how the preserved history restored my pride as black female and I love how it reminds us of our worth not only as nation but as a race, we are Golden!
Beutifuly done, it reminded the times I was there…. and those steps yerr.
Thanks Fari. This is so informative. You’re the best
Because how could a place this important not be celebrated loudly? You summed it up here for me, thank you. May this generation, and others to come, find pride in being African.
Wow my daughters history lesson when she was in primary level I think 🤔 this is a wonderful experience 😀. Will share this with her.